AF A380 virtual ed: 'Basque' in the glory of South West France

THE shop window displaying colourful Basque linen unashamedly declares: Paris, London, Espelette, New York. Unsurprising as Espelette is the very epicentre of capsicum gorria (aka the red chilli). And, explains our very knowledgeable guide Cecile, these red chillis (which are hung outside local houses as if they were socks on a washing line) are "world renowned". We're in Basque country today and although the word generally conjures up images of unshaven greasy rebels bombing cities and disgruntled separatists, this area of south-western France and north-eastern Spain is roughly the size of El Salvador and a truly magical place. Driving southwards some 20 minutes to the Spanish border from Biarritz, we stop at one of the most quaint towns I've ever visited. Saint Jean de Luz was the site of the wedding of Louis XIV to his cousin the infanta of Spain Maria Teresa in 1660. And this amazing heritage is preserved as the Basque people I'm told are very respectful of culture, family and tradition. Fabienne Perrin from the tourist office explains how each house has its own Basque name and rather than being identified by one's surname, the community would know you by the house from which you hail. It's a rather strange language Basque (or Euskara as it is known locally). Not anything like Spanish or French, it said to be one of the oldest languages in Europe. Local dishes like Hachoa (a sweet pepper dish), Mouchous (macaroons stuck together in pairs) and Marmitako (a tuna dish) may sound nonsensical to the average Frenchman (never mind the average South African) but the taste is out of this world (I know what you're thinking: she's on the food again). And while I'm on it... We head for Zoko Moko (literally 'Nice Spot' in Basque), a restaurant offering traditional fish dishes, among others. Delicious snapper, John Dory and lamb makes its way to the table. Followed by chocolate mousse and waffles with ice-cream. Just when you thought it was safe to let out that last hole on your belt, out comes the mignardieses or after-coffee desserts (as if that was really necessary). They like to take their time savouring meals, Fabienne says. Growing up in a little village called Sare, she explains a local Basque saying which translated into English means simply 'In Sare, we have time'. We saunter slowly through the town and past Louis XIV Square where the village's children are in the midst of a dress-up party despite the rainy cold weather. We make a quick stop at the harbour, which I gather is a bit of a sore point between St Jean de Luz and neighbouring Ciboure as they're forced to share it under the guidance of Bayonne. The fishing village atmosphere with colourful boats, white 18th Century buildings with red and blue trim is not at all overshadowed by the snow-capped Pyrénées which tower in the distance. The local church, St Jean Baptiste church, was the site of Louis XIV's wedding and its distinctly different from the kind of church one would get just a few kilometres north of Bayonne (the border of Basque country). Galleries line the side walls and it is said that only men are allowed to sit there, while the women remain on the ground floor to look after the crypts in which their ancestors are buried (hmm, so much for women's lib). But true to tradition, explains Fabienne, in her Basque village they still honour this culture and the split between sexes and their location in church remains. We head to Fabienne's hometown Sare through the windy mountain roads leading to La Rhune, the highest mountain in the area which the infanta is said to have visited once a week with her ladies in waiting (whether or not they wished to accompany her). The thought of delicate Maria Teresa scaling its 900 metres in her favourite dress and sensible shoes leaves me a little surprised. But perhaps it is just the bitter cold that dissuades me from the same feat. There is actually a funicular (railway) that from the months of February to November takes visitors up the mountain for spectacular views of the sea and inland B